If you want to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and actually see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to remove copper fouling. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.
Get rid of the brush, pipe it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleansing rod with a paper towel. Take your patch rod, and put three solvent restore the bore. The last one need to come out almost white. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, but if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. But every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary procedures work? I doubt it. I've had one or two cases where a barrel suddenly started to group as I reached the end of the procedure, but I've had even more burglaries that made no difference at all.
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They work, in some cases, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but excellent, and because I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I'm reluctant to take the chance. Likewise, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their firearms going bang. They desire them immaculate. And immaculate is a great way to go.
The actions to appropriately clean your rifle depend upon whether you are doing a field stripping or total disassembly. We'll cover fundamental field removing in this article. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this post. This is the most vital action in the whole cleansing process.
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, and remove any loose particles that might be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One typical myth is that more is much better when it comes to lubrication of your firearm.
The procedure is simple. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel clamped or pointed down to prevent any solvent gathering near the actionsee Step 1.) Permit it to sit, and keep in mind that removing copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again, and repeat. If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit once again and repeat. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of discuss how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you don't want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. As soon as you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry patches down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have been wet with a routine cleaning solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.